The
grasslands, horse riding
hiking and living there
The best way to experience the grasslands
and horse riding is to take this option.
With this option you
can ride horses all day, any day, relax, hike, make cheese, etc.
You will go to UlanHot
by airplane (2 hour flight from Beijing) or train (18 hour ride from
Beijing). Then a car will meet you and take to a supermarket to
buy supplies. We will buy the basics, but is your only chance to buy
snacks, drinks, wine, etc. Then you will drive to the grassland, about
3 hours away by car.
The towns will get
smaller and smaller. Farms will soon give way to the grasslands.
You will say "Where are
we going?" This is a very remote area.
Finally you will
arrive. Here the grasslands have some small mountains. Not big
mountains, but beautiful and rolling.
The place is a family
homestead where they raise sheep, cows, and horses. There will be a
Mongolian tent for you to stay in.
You will stay in a
Mongolian tent. There is a Western toilet set into the grasslands for
your use, but remember that you can always just find an isolated spot
and "let it go", either a small one or a big one. The Westerner
who stayed here for a month had no toilet at all. The Western toilet in
the grassland is actually overkill for Western people only. In small
towns there is an outhouse, but on the grassland there is only the
grassland. Not even a hole.
But there is no running
water, no electricity except a usually working wind turbine that can
charge cell phones and digital camera batteries. Be sure to bring your
chargers.
Cooking will be done
for you using forest wood as a fuel. It is like luxurious camping.
There is no shower. If
you want a shower, they will heat a pot of water for you.
Drinking water will be
bottled water I will buy for you.
The area is wonderful.
You can hike and trek for a day in virgin forests. You can play Frisbee
or soccer on the grasslands. You can make cheese, yoghurt, or cream.
Here there are no
fences.
You can mingle with and
photograph the animals and homestead.
You can ride a horse
all day if you want, or rest, or just soak up the scenery, or hike, or
trek, or make cheese, or make cream, or make yoghurt, or play soccer ,
or play Frisbee, or photograph. It is up to you.
It is
the kind of place you will remember forever. One Westerner stayed here
for a month and was fine. A week is fine, two weeks OK, but over two
weeks will get a little boring. There is nothing but nature here. No
shops, no restaurants, no hotels, no nothing. One day is not enough.
Two or three days is minimum. It will work for a long weekend from
Beijing arriving Friday and leaving Sunday. Two nights (the minimum
suggested)
Horse riding in Mongolia is different than horse riding in the West.
Mongolian saddles are configured differently. Whereas Western saddles
have a horn to hold on to, Mongolian saddles do not. There is something
to hold onto, but it is not a horn.
Westerners find the biggest change is in the stirrups. Mongolian
stirrups are significantly shorter and cannot be easily made longer.
The reason they are shorter is that in ancient times it allowed
Mongolian horse riders to stand higher in the saddle to shoot arrows.
So this means that your legs may be uncomfortable.
Easily the most dangerous animal on the grasslands are the horses. Be
careful. They can bite and hurt you with a swift kick. Never approach
an animal from the rear. Never.
Always carefully inspect the saddle. Make sure it is secure and safe.
Do not ride a horse with frayed or badly secured ropes. Mongolians may
assume things you do not. Be your own boss.
Please remember you are going to a very remote area. I have no control
over cars getting stuck, rain, mud, cold weather, dust, and so on. I
will bring all basic supplies for you such as bottled water, toilet
paper, food, and so on. Water will also be available for the toilet,
showers, etc. This water comes from a tube well. The Mongolians use
this water for everything.
I STRONGLY suggest you bring basic medicines, a good flashlight for
each person, a good camera with extra fully charged batteries, take
care of dangers, rain protection (a poncho is best), and good shoes.
You should be able to charge rechargeable batteries, assuming that the
wind generator is working. My friend used a solar panel.
Remember that this will be like very, very luxurious camping.
Don't plan on taking a bath or shower for the duration of your stay if
you only stay a few days. Every four to six days is enough to bathe.
Men will find an electric shaver very helpful.
Your stools may loosen with the new diet, but it is probably not an
intestinal infection. Shoes should be flexible boots, not stiff boots.
You will be fine in sneakers, but you may slip when climbing up a hill.
A very small store is about an hours drive away, but you will never get
medicines, or special things.
It will take about 3 or so hours to drive from the UlanHot airport to
the grasslands. So don't book an arrival flight late or a departure
flight early. Ideally, arrive in UlanHot early to midday and leave
UlanHot midday to late.
If you are confident with horses, fine. If not TELL PEOPLE. They will
lead the horse. REMEMBER TO TELL PEOPLE IF YOU WANT SOMETHING.
MONGOLIANS HAVE NEVER HEARD OF OSMOSIS.
If I go to the grasslands near UlanHot to ride horses, what is a
typical day like?
When you arrive you will go to the Mongolian Ger. It is clean,
spacious, dry, and decorated. It has three beds. More can be added. You
can unpack and rest. The Ger looks out unto the grasslands.
There is an adjacent stone structure where the people (my family) live
to raise animals. Usually 500 to 1,000 sheep, horses and cattle.
You will arise with the light. Mongolian people live by the sun. In the
summer, it starts to get light about 4 am. Everyone is up by 5 am. You
can sleep as long as you want, but starting around 5 am your will hear
sheep "baaing", cattle "mooing" and so on. People will shout.
Motorcycles may come. Tractors may come. But there is only one car on
the vast grassland, ours.
Breakfast will come when you are up. If it is raining you can eat
either in the stone house or in the Ger. If it is not raining you can
eat anyplace. Outside is best. Hot water will come earlier IF YOU TELL
PEOPLE THE NIGHT BEFORE. If you want to drink instant coffee or tea, be
sure to get it in UlanHot.
After breakfast you are on your own. You can ride horses. Cook? Milk
cows? Hike? Trek? Visit families? Sleep? Just sit and watch the
grassland? Photograph the sheep? Frisbees? Soccer? Walk to the river?
Gather firewood for cooking?
For lunch if you are at the Ger, lunch will come about 1 pm. If you
want to hike and eat lunch on the grassland, take something with you.
If you think it may rain, take rain protection.
After lunch you are still on your own.
Dinner will be at the Ger about 7 pm.
After dinner you can look at the stars, marvel at the scenery in the
moonlight, or if you must have a fire, it can be made. It turns out
that a fire will take you away from the culture.
Sleep time is between 9 pm and 10 pm.
There will always be beer and whiskey (You may need to pay extra, but
it is very cheap. You will pay the local store price), drinking
water (included). Beer is about US$0.50 per big bottle. You may want
beer for breakfast, lunch, and dinner as the locals do.
There is no running water. No shower or bath. The toilet is a nice
outhouse with a Western toilet set in it. You can wash clothes by hand
if you want.
So the grassland Ger is
only a place to sleep, be comfortable, eat, and soak up the culture.
The rest is up to you. Nothing is set.
Bring rain protection.
Updated 08/06/2011