ManZhouLi
ManZhouLi or Manchouli , city (1994 est. pop. 129,100), NE Inner Mongolian Autonomous Region, China, on the Russian border. Heavy industry is the most important economic activity; main industries include coal mining and food processing. ManZhouLi developed after the construction (1903) of the Chinese Eastern RR and was important as a customs station; until recent times virtually all trade between China and Russia passed through there; trade with Russia remains important to the economy. Many Russian émigrés settled in the city after the Bolshevik revolution. It was known as Lubin from 1913 until 1949.
When I first came to ManZhouLi several years ago, I wasn't sure what to make of it. It was definitely not China, but I was in China. I was confused.There were lots of people who looked like foreigners. Then I realized, this is a Russian town.
ManZhouLi is a Russian town in China. Whereas once it was a border crossing for merchants, now Russians pour in to buy inexpensive Russian goods made in China. The stores are filled with such goods. Almost all the store signs are in Russian, with a smattering of Chinese and very little Mongolian. English is nowhere to be seen. It is a good place to buy clothes and shoes, as shops have sizes for foreigners which are much larger than Chinese.
The Russian food is excellent. Russian is widely spoken. There is a Russian-Chinese language school for the merchants. During peak season, there are more Russians than Chinese.
ManZhouLi is a tourist town. A Russian tourist town. You will find many shops to look in. You can find Vodka to Fir Coats and Fir Hats. It is very cheap during the winter because no one comes here. It can get very cold (-30 F.). During the brief period of warmer weather (June, July, & August) it is expensive but beautiful, as the city is crowded with Russian tourists.
If you book a regular tour, we are giving you a full day free here to shop and look. We like to fill up days, but here you can explore. In the city center is the Russian area. Farther away is the Chinese area. Be sure and visit the two big squares. Thee is a nice sauna.
This is also a good place to just relax, have a long lunch, and just rest.
You can walk across a bridge to the train station, crossing numerous tracks. Remember, this is a major crossing point in Northern China.
Our hotel in ManZhouLi is not the fanciest and certainly not the simplest. But I think it is an excellent value. It has lots of hot water in the evenings for a bath (let it run at least 30 minutes. In the morning it is only warm for a shower. The hot water is rust colored, so be prepared for a bath in rust colored water ), a bathtub, a/c, heater, TV, hot pot, is very safe, a restaurant, and is centrally located. [I strongly suggest you take a hot shower or bath at night. In the morning, if you are lucky, there will be hot water. If you are unlucky the water will be only warm. If you are very, very unlucky, the water will be cold. I get up very early, and there is usually enough hot water for a bath.This applies all over Inner Mongolia if you do not see an electric or gas hot water heater.] Our favorite Russian restaurant is a short walk away. Don't shop in all the shops en route to the restaurant (ha, ha).
We should be in ManZhouLi about 1 PM, time for a late lunch. You will have the rest of the day free. again, we like to fill fays, but this is a city you will want to explore.
Be sure and take a "hotel card".
And watch cars, bicycles, and motorcycles. The rules are different than Western countries. Just do not suddenly change your speed or direction. Do not suddenly run or stop. Watch and listen.
This really is a great city to explore. If you want the next day to explore, fine. Otherwise we have many plans. It is up to you.
You will not believe you are in China. Here you can get nice Mink full length coats for about Rmb 10,000. 3/4 real Mink coats are Rmb 8,000. Real Mink. I think better, you can get a jacket made out of variegated rabbit fir for Rmb 3,000. At the time of writing (6/22/08) it is discounted 50%. Maybe when you are here, the discount will be less. The above are summer prices. When winter comes and it is cold, prices double.bargain hard, but because ManZhouLi s a tourist town, maybe you will have difficulty.
In Beijing, at "Ya Show", shop (a lot) the lowest price without bargaining. Once you have this price, then bargain. Don't bargain before this. Once you offer a price, you have committed yourself. The price you will end up paying is 50% of this. This is not true in ManZhouLi.
A great place is the JaLaNor coal mine. It is one of the largest open pit coal mines in the world. A source of pollution soon to be gone forever.
Like many tourists, I looked on the internet. Yes, old trains from the 1930's are here. They will be gone in 1 year. But the real thing about the mine is they dig through history.
There is a small museum where they display a discovered Mammoth from thousands of years ago.
There is an ancient grave of the XianBei people. (Remember ALiHe?)
There is the International Border Crossing to Russia. Sometimes you can walk to the border, other times no. You can take the train to Russia, if you have a valid passport and visa (from Beijing).
There is a huge square of giant Matruska dolls over 15 feet high, with one over 30 feet high.
There are shops of all variety and types.
The is a huge lake outside of ManZhouLi where you can fish, ride boats, or get huge shellfish. Remember, this is a lake on the grasslands, not the forest. There are few trees. The food is better in the city.
The dinner show has 8 dances including a Chinese dance. The later show has only 3 Russian dances. Remember, we pay for dinner and the show, but you must pay for drinks. Beer is Rmb 12 for a big bottle (maybe cold). Chinese Vodka is Rmb 30 to 100, depending on the quality. Russian Vodka is Rmb 130. All for a big bottle. Russians drink Vodka straight, never mixed.
There is a very nice dinner show st 6:30 PM to 8:30 PM. There is a later show at 10:00 PM to 04:00 AM if you want to see the girls. Drinks are extra at Rmb 6 for a small bottle of beer, Rmb 12 for a big bottle. Vodka per big bottle has a range of Rmb 30 to 100 (Chinese made), and Rmb 120 (Russian made).
One important "secret" for foreigners in ManZhouLi is that you can usually find your clothes size. There are so many big Russians, that Westerners can usually find their size. Chinese are small people, and in Beijing, except at certain places, sizes are a problem. Always try everything on. Never trust a size. Manufacturers in China vary widely in their sizes. Try to convert your size to a European size. For example, I wear a size 42 shoe in China and an 8 1/2 size in the US.
Get up early. Be on the street before 08:00 AM. Run with Nara. If you get up early, you will see true Chinese sights. The pot cleaner. The glass cleaner man. The bicycle repair man. And so on. If you don't want to run, just walk to our favorite restaurant and have a cup if coffee with fresh cream and sugar. The cleaner men congregate there.
A few Russian wood houses still stand in the center of ManZhouLi, and the free flow of cash and vodka lends a certain exhilaration to the place, but most points of interest lie elsewhere. The closest attraction, only 10km (6 miles) west of town, is the old Sino-Russian border crossing. When (I first went to ManZhouLi it was open, but it was closed to foreigners in June, 2008. Nothing much happens here anymore, as most Russians enter China through a new border crossing further north, but it is worth visiting simply to see the CCCP still printed on the gate that marks the Russian side. You'll need your passport to get in. Access is by taxi only. You will need a Russian visa to get to Russia, obtainable from Beijing only, not here. This is a crossing point from China to Russia for foreigners.
Hulun Nur (Hulun Lake) in Inner Mongolia, is an huge lake coming out of the grasslands about 22 miles south of ManZhouLi. The lake is China's fifth largest. Many rare birds feed here. You can also see local fishermen get shellfish. A small group of houses on the north shore offers boat, water balloon, horse, and camel rides, but do not expect any kind of organized approach. This is getting to the country.
Hulun Buir Grasslands: No other grasslands in Inner Mongolia can match the Hulun Buir, an green grassy expanse with many patches of wild flowers. The grass here is twice as long as anything found near Hohhot, a place most people go to experience "Mongolia". The best season for seeing the grasslands runs from late June to mid-August, otherwise the green turns to greenish/brown. The drive from Hailar to ManZhouLi is about 2.5 hours and goes through this grassland, although the grassland is nicer just outside Hailar going to ChenQi.
The Hulun Buir is the location of the famous Nadaam festival, held every summer, usually between mid-July and mid-August. The exact dates change every year. Although this festival is huge, there are others where foreigners are never seen. One is near Hailair.
The country of Mongolia, not Inner Mongolia of China, has the famous Nadaam festival you have heard of. The country of Mongolia is hundreds of miles away. Look on a map.
There are open pit coal mines near ManZhouLi with 1930's type coal steam engines. It was built by the Russians. If you are "into" trains, there are many older engines to see. The old trains are scheduled to be gone by 2011.
Trains connect ManZhouLi to Beijing. You can also get on the Trans-Siberian Train here and go to Irkusk or Moscow. Busses are often more convenient.
You need a visa to get to Russia, but visas are only issued in Beijing, not here. Travel agents here can get a Russian visa for you, but it will be expensive and take many days as your passport must go to Beijing.
ManZhouLi has INTERNET access.
Updated December 26, 2010